Linen Fabric 101: Supplies for Sewing

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Let's talk about the varying types of linen you'll regularly find on the market today and what's appropriate for historical costuming! There's a lot of different textile options and it can quickly end up confusing, so I'm not only going to break down the definition of each, but we'll look at the textile close up, see how it handles, and even sometimes how it makes up into a finished garment!

Plain Weave
- Handkerchief
- Lightweight
- Midweight
- Heavy weight
Standard over/under weave pattern. Comes in many different weights based on the size of the threads and the number of threads packed into each inch. This is a common linen both historically and modern. Useful for undergarments, accessories, utilitarian items, aprons, day gowns and jackets, menswear, etc. Use in undergarments is fairly consistent regardless of class, accessories are common but not formal, and as an outer garment it's most common in casual, working, or Summer attire.

Canvas
- Tailors canvas
- Collar canvas
- Buckram
- Glazed Linen
- Beetled Linen
- Burlap
- Crash
Still a plain weave, but with a heavier and stiffer hand. Basically the industrial plain weave. Used in utilitarian purposes like tents and sails, internal to tailoring, the base layer in stays or other stiffened bodices until the 19th c, working trousers and clothing, etc. It's weight and structure can make it uncomfortable for regular outer clothing, but it is very durable and does well as structural layers. Some canvas has an applied stiffener (such as Buckram) and cannot be washed without loosing this.

Twill
- Diagonal
- Herringbone
- Drill
- Ticking
- Silesia
Has a clear diagonal texture, which may alternated to create a herringbone effect. This weave is similar to your typical denim and is useful as a hardwearing textile. Comes in a variety of weights which can determine its best use. Lighter weight twills are good for outer clothing and can help with opacity issues in lighter colors. Heavier weight, like drill or ticking, are popular for upholstery uses.

Crepe
Plain weave with a pebbled texture caused by thread twist. Popular for accessories in the 19th c and good for 20th c fashion.

Dobby
- Waffle
- Brocade
- Diaper
Repetitive small designs, often geometric, made up by alternating the weave type. Some weaves are heavily textured and are ideal for use as absorbent cloth. Diapers, petticoats, towels, etc.

Knit
Less common historically, but mechanically knit fabric became popular by the 18th c. and linen stockings are a popular use.

Blends
- Cotton
- Rayon
- Linsey Woolsey
Blending linen with other fibers can reduce some of linens less desirable qualities like wrinkling, but may also change its nature towards temperature, moisture, and odor.

Sources for textiles shown:
https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
https://www.eatonhilltextiles.com/
https://www.hemptraders.com/
https://linenhandmadestudio.com/

Image Sources:
🖼 Flax processing: http://headfordlaceproject.ie/history/84-flax-to-linen
🖼 Flax processing: https://www.susiegillespie.com/flax/#!
🖼 Bleaching Green: http://catalogue.nli.ie/Record/vtls000324715/Holdings#tabnav
🖼 Retting: http://catalogue.nli.ie/Record/vtls000543459
🖼 30000 year old fibers: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/26803406_30000-Year-Old_Wild_Flax_Fibers

Additional Materials:
🖼 Flax processing: https://ulsterlinen.com/flax-to-linen/
📚 Flax vs. Hemp: https://www.autexrj.com/cms/zalaczone_pliki/2-03-2.pdf
📚 The Linen Trade: https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=hvd.32044019641166&view=1up&seq=11
📚 Ancient Fibers: https://dash.harvard.edu/handle/1/4270521
📚 Textiles in America: https://amzn.to/3f2s7v9
📚 5,000 years of Textiles: https://amzn.to/3xVdmmk
📚 Women's Work: https://amzn.to/3nZvxmd
📚 The Golden Thread: https://amzn.to/3bfhYdc

00:00 Introduction
02:01 Flax vs Hemp
04:55 Processing
10:35 History
11:59 Care & Qualities
17:55 Plain weave
21:53 Canvas
25:20 Finished Canvas
26:58 Twill weave
29:13 Crepe & Dobby
36:01 Blends

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🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (https://www.epidemicsound.com)